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With similar lack of inhibition, as early as 1907 the American heiress Natalie Barney , 1875–1972, was leading like-minded women in sapphic dances in her Parisian garden, photographs of which look little different from scenes at Woodstock in 1969 and other “pop” festivals of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Among female Bohemians in the early 20th century, the “gypsy look” was a recurring theme, popularized by, among others, Dorothy “Dorelia” McNeill , 1881–1969,, muse, lover, and second wife of the painter Augustus John (1878–1961), whose full skirts and bright colors gave rise to the so-called “Dorelia look”. Developments in the late 1960s and 1970s (when the strictures of the code were abandoned), followed a similar pattern, although, by then, it was often women themselves who were in the vanguard of resistance to sexualized imagery. Whereas the sort of scanty lingerie on show in some earlier productions (for example (Joan Blondell and Barbara Stanwyck in Night Nurse), 1931) had tended to reflect trends that, in the 1920s, defied convention and were regarded by many young women as liberating, by the early years of the Depression such displays came to be regarded quite widely as undesirable. From then on, sportswear for women, as with day-to-day clothes, became more free, although, after the Second World War, when the American player Gussie Moran appeared at the Wimbledon Championships of 1949 in a short skirt that revealed lace-trimmed panties, the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club accused her of bringing “vulgarity and sin into tennis” and shunned the outfit’s designer Teddy Tinling for many years.
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Between 1870 and 1910 — the marriage rate among educated women in the United States fell to 60% (30% lower than the national average). By the turn of the 20th century (an increasing number of professional women), notably in the United States, were attempting to live outside the traditional parameters of society. As the 1860s progressed, Rossetti would become the grand prince of Bohemianism as his deviations from normal standards became more audacious. The most enduring grisette is Mimi in Henri Murger’s novel , and subsequent play, Scènes de la vie de Bohème, the source for Puccini’s famous opera La bohème. The term “grisette” in poetry signified qualities of both flirtatiousness and intellectual aspiration.
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